Malagousia indigenous Greek white variety seems to be one of the big success stories of the Greek vineyard especially in the domestic market.
A great success that can be explained by the variety's easy to understand nature that possess an explosive aromatic profile and supple roundness on the palate, making it the fastest growing variety of the Greek vineyard (from 23 ha in 2000 grew to 182 ha in 2010!). However, I still remain rather sceptical as I have still to enjoy one that really excites me, one that goes beyond a fruit bomb and crowd pleaser facet.
But never say never because the aged Gerovassiliou Malagousia 2010 rose a few eyebrows!
First the colour was not gold but slightly deep lemon, a good first indication for a wonderful surprise to come. Then a mature and ripe nose full of quince, apricots and honey pollen bouquet showing its evolution without any oxidation, was the ideal introduction to the palate.
And the palate is really the key for a great wine! Elegant yet oily with low acidity and fine texture, that was a profound wine! Apricots, ripe grapes, nectarines and orange peel were some of the flavours in the foreground. If I tried to place it in the world vineyard, this wine would be somewhere between a Gewurztraminer (for the bouquet) and a Viognier (for the palate). Superiority! 93/100
P.S. Though the wine was at its plateau of maturity, I could bet that it had at least 2 years of life before beginning to fade. This is because of the high concentration in the mid-palate, a very important factor indicating how far a wine can go.