28 March 2014

Just a day before the official start of ProWein, the Italian Wine Guide Gamberro Rosso, presented all the tre bicchieri wines in Dusseldorf. More than 100 wineries were present covering a diversity of wine regions from Piemonte to Sardinia, offering a superb opportunity to both professionals and consumers to taste the crème de la crème of Italian wines.

Quality was in most cases outstanding and if something could be described as awkward, then one should look at the very top examples and their youthful, yet mostly unbalanced condition. Overall a joy to all senses with the exception of gums' torture in some tough reds.

Some favourites:


Cartizze is a Prosecco subzone or cru with 105 hectares divided among more than 100 growers. This gorgeous sparkling wine from Villa Sandi has so much complexity of aromas that you doubt if it is a Prosecco at all.


Ferrari is no big secret in sparkling wine world producing some ultra refined examples. The Extra Brut Perle Nero 07 and Lunelli Riseva with 6 and 8 years on the lees respectively would make many Champagnes blush.


Vermentino's from Cantine Lunae Bosoni were singing, Et. Nera in particular with floral aromatics and serious phenolic texture . So it seems that Vermentino in the right hands can be deliciously complex.


Scrimaglio's Barbera d'Asti Nizza Acse matured in a third new oak is wonderful rich and meaty with dense structure and velvety tannins.


Mamete Prevostini produces a silky textured Valtellina from a 100% Nebbiolo that has a sub-Burgundy character. Lovely!


Lagrein Taber Riserva 2011 from Cantina Bolzano has an impenetreable blue-black colour and quite a lot of oak at this stage, yet mouthfeel is very soft and attractive. Weird but yummy.


Due Mani Suisassi 2010 is a full throttle-impressive oaked Syrah, not lacking in elegance however. Expressive, ripe and already complex shows excellent ability to improve over the next years.


Sondraia 2010 from Poggio al Tesoro is another excellent example from Bolgheri, ripe and fresh at the same time with beautiful dense structure and velvety texture.


Quite a line-up of opulent Amarones from Tenuta Sant'Antonio, Allegrini, Lorenzo Begali, Brigaldara and Lorenzo Begali.

Finally some wines need no introduction



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